----- Original Message ----- 
From: Bill Maloney
To: David Saum http://www.infiltec.com/gold/yukon/
Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 2:38 AM
Subject: Yukon River Trip


> David:  Sorry for the delay in getting back to you.  I have been traveling.
> 
> Pam and I did the Whitehorse to Carmax leg in July 2000.  We had started in
> Dawson in 1995 and went to Eagle.  In 1996 we did Eagle to Circle.  In 1998
> we did the Sheenjek River down to the Porcupine, then down to Fort Yukon at
> the Yukon River (Unbelievably wild trip.  Went the first 10 days and 230
> miles before we saw our first human).  This year we are switching to the
> Kongakut River on the North Slope and canoeing part of that river in an
> effort to catch the Porcupine caribou herd starting its migration off the
> North Slope.
> 
> We should have a phone discussion (Day 925/945-6844, night 925/939-1403) to
> fill in details.
> 
> In general, get ready for the following.  In mid-June the mosquitoes will
> still be out in force unless it is really an early spring and a dry one.  So
> far I understand the precipitation has been below normal since last summer.
> We generally do not go on the Yukon until late July to avoid the little
> buggers.  If you camp out in the open on the river, the wind will help keep
> them away.  Unfortunately, the upper river bt Whitehorse and Dawson does not
> have many islands out in the river where you can camp.  Those start popping
> up after Dawson.  Island camp site help minimize bear encounters.  Even on
> islands, we beach and walk the perimeter of an island looking for fresh
> Grizzly tracks.  If we find them we move on unless we are too tired or there
> are no close by camping alternatives.
> 
> We travel with a couple of friends from Alaska.  The man has lived in Alaska
> for about 40 years and has extensive wilderness experience.  He is the only
> CPA I know who can kill a moose, field dress it and haul it home for winter
> food.  He is very cautious about Grizzlies.  We use mostly freeze dried food
> bc it has less attractive smells.  We take lots of fresh veggies, but no
> eggs, meat, etc.  He considers frying bacon to be one of the dumbest things
> one can do in Grizzly country.  No guns are allowed in Canada, but you can
> buy bear spray.  I would get some.  Be careful if you have to spray it.  The
> vehicle for the pepper is a vegetable based oil.  If you get it on tents,
> canoes cloths, it might be a bear attractant on it own.  In the US we carry
> 44 magnum revolvers.  Do not camp  in or near dense brush, as this may
> result in bears coming right up to your camp before they know you are there.
> Bad JuJu.
> 
> Do not walk through dense willow thickets along creeks and rivers if you can
> avoid it.  Bears sleep in there during the day time.  If you must go in such
> places, make a lot of noise so the residents know you are coming.
> 
> Generally the weather in summer is pretty benign on the Yukon.  The central
> plateau of Alaska/Yukon is very dry.  However, it can rain and at times it
> may rain for a few days at a time.  We approach the trips from a gear and
> personal psychology point of view on the assumption that it is going to rain
> the entire time.  That means canoeing in the rain, setting up camp in the
> rain, cooking in the rain, etc.  This has never happened to us, but I think
> a person is asking for trouble if you do not plan on how to deal with that
> prospect mentally and materially.  You need very high quality rain gear.
> Gortex is God.  Synthetic fleece is mandatory, with the Windblock fleece
> being primo stuff.  Leave the cotton clothing home.  Go with nylon pants,
> synthetic fabrics, etc.   Getting cloths to dry is way tougher than putting
> on more synthetic layers to stay warm.  No goosedown sleeping bags.  They
> turn into sponges.  Use synthetics.
> 
> You cannot fly fuel for your stove, but virtually any type of stove fuel is
> available in Whitehorse.  We use the Bluet propane/butane canister stoves.
> The cartridges are available on the main street of Whitehorse in the outdoor
> supply store.
> 
> Your tent probably does not need to be able to stand up to high winds, by it
> should be roomy (you may be in it for a day or more at a crack) and MUST
> have a major league rain fly.  The rain fly should be long enough to stand
> out from the bottom of the tent several inches and still almost touch the
> ground so rain does not splash up under the fly and on to the porous tent
> surface.  I would avoid fiberglass tent poles as they usually are weaker
> than aluminum and are commonly a sign of a low quality tent.  Have a pole
> repair kit and a tent patch kit (to keep mosquitoes out as much as rain).
> 
> The stretch of river from Whitehorse to Lake LaBarge is tame and pretty.
> Lake LaBarge is dangerous!  Get local info about it before you leave
> Whitehorse.  It is a big lake and can build up large swells.  The wind
> develops quickly.  When you get on the lake stay on the right (north) side
> near shore so you can get off the lake quickly if conditions deteriorate.
> The prevailing wind is from the downstream direction (figures) and can blow
> hard for days at a time.  Build lay days into your schedule in case
> conditions trap you on the beach at Lake LaBarge.
> 
> Once downstream of LaBarge, the river moves fast for many miles.  If you
> have a camp site marked on your map, allow plenty of time to get across the
> river to the site or you will scoot by it.
> 
> Do not spend an overnight at Carmax.  Resupply and move on before camping.
> It has a reputation as a nasty place with many drunks and belligerent people
> who do not particularly like whites.  We saw some of that when we were
> there.
> 
> Just below Carmax is 5 Fingers Rapids.  It is the only dangerous rapids on
> your trip.  We did not do it but our friends did.  Stay to the right side
> going down.  Ask about conditions if the river is unusually low or high.
> 
> Dawson is a blast.  Total party town.
> 
> One thing you must have is a good book of Robert Service poetry.  Many of
> his poems are set on the Yukon leg you will do.  Nothing like the evening
> cocktail hour with someone reading "The Cremation of Sam McGee" ("on the
> marge of Lake LaBarge...").
> 
> Give me a call.
> 
> Bill
> 
>